Stamina Training for Climbing

Most folks are familiar with the two most commonly trained aspects of physical attributes - maximum strength and strength endurance. These two attributes contribute greatly to one's ability to perform difficult climbing. Another attribute which I find to be nearly as important, yet usually overlooked or even unknown, is stamina. Stamina is the body's ability to recover between efforts, or the ability to exert effort for an extended period of time.

This is an important ability to develop because it allows one to train harder or to work for a longer time at a higher level on projects or onsights. This is great training to do for the early part of a macro cycle, to prepare the body for higher loads of training in the middle part of a macro cycle, and higher loads from performance in the latter part of a macro cycle. This is also good training for consolidating grades or breaking through plateaus.

The workout consists of discreet efforts separated by good rests over a course of 90 to 120 minutes. A simple way to train for stamina is to do a bouldering pyramid, as follows. Pick one problem near your maximum red point grade, two problems one step down, four problems two steps down, and eight problems three steps down. The problems are then performed pyramid style:

* four V3's
* two V4's
* one V5
* one V6
* one V5
* two V4's
* four V3's

Attempt each problem until it is sent, but give no more than three attempts. Rest 3-5 minutes between each attempt. This workout should leave you feeling pretty worked, I would not recommend following up with a maximum strength workout for at least 48 hours.

Comments

  1. Hey Gabe,

    I'm pretty sure your the same guy that I've known for awhile. Skinny kid, friends with flapping gums Chris, and gameboy Aron Smith. We hung out last year in October at the Red River Gorge with Chris and Aron. If so this is Jeff Arthur. I moved to Colorado almost 3 yrs ago, but you already knew that. Well take care and hit me up if you get a chance. My blog is under www.southeastatheart.blogspot.com later dude. If you are out this way in Colorado you have a free place to stay.

    Take Care, Jeff Arthur

    ReplyDelete

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