Taylor and I have made it as far as the sticks of Kentucky. We've setup camp at the infamous Ashtray compound near the gorge, and are wondering how long we can take the heat. Highs of 85 have left the rock climbing feeling kinda crappy! We did get a nice full day in at the New, whereTaylor onsighted Tony the Tiger, and I flashed it. It was a fight for both of us and it felt good to get a good send under our belts.
We stopped in for a quick session at the Motherlode yesterday where we felt out a couple of potential projects - Buff the Wood for Taylor and Stain for myself. Buff the Wood has a couple of very long moves, especially for me. Going to the poor crimp rail at the bottom I'm using an undercling and its FULL extension for me to reach the good spot with my right hand. Taylor could lock off and go up with his left - this is a good route for him.
I got up to the third bolt on Stain onsight and grabbed the draw to clip in. There is one more move off of tiny crimps to a huge jug out right before the clip, and there is definitely potential to deck from here. The next bolt is quite run out as well, this line has got some spice! After feeling out both lines, I'm thinking Buff the Wood might be better for me now...
Today we are taking an active rest day, its pretty hot! Ugh! 82 in the shade! We're gonna hit curbside and do some 10's, 11's, and possibly a 12 or two. Tomorrow is a big day, starting at Roadside where Taylor will attempt an onsight for flash of Ro, then either Military Wall or the Lode.
Thats the update for now, see you next rest day!
We stopped in for a quick session at the Motherlode yesterday where we felt out a couple of potential projects - Buff the Wood for Taylor and Stain for myself. Buff the Wood has a couple of very long moves, especially for me. Going to the poor crimp rail at the bottom I'm using an undercling and its FULL extension for me to reach the good spot with my right hand. Taylor could lock off and go up with his left - this is a good route for him.
I got up to the third bolt on Stain onsight and grabbed the draw to clip in. There is one more move off of tiny crimps to a huge jug out right before the clip, and there is definitely potential to deck from here. The next bolt is quite run out as well, this line has got some spice! After feeling out both lines, I'm thinking Buff the Wood might be better for me now...
Today we are taking an active rest day, its pretty hot! Ugh! 82 in the shade! We're gonna hit curbside and do some 10's, 11's, and possibly a 12 or two. Tomorrow is a big day, starting at Roadside where Taylor will attempt an onsight for flash of Ro, then either Military Wall or the Lode.
Thats the update for now, see you next rest day!
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