Moore's Wall Warm Up Area Part 2

Numbers went down yesterday at Moore's! Lots of people sending lots of problems!

To start the day off we went to the new warm up area. I wanted to at least show the V4 pinch problem to the guys, to see if they thought it was as good as I thought it was. Before that though, some other lines got cleaned and sent. Brian and Adam did a tall line up the vertical face of the tall boulder with the short roof. This is the second "main" boulder you come to after leaving the trail. The problem is on the face facing away from the trail, and it tops out just on the left side of the ridge of the boulder. They said it was about V3.

I did a problem starting on the far left side of the vertical face of the shorter boulder. It starts on a now-scarred jug, with bad feet. It goes up into a very cool left facing layback feature. Work the feature to the top which is an easy mantle, for a great V2.

We then went to the overhanging left face of this boulder, for the pinch problem. Everybody sent, and the V4 grade was confirmed, as was the quality of the line. Everybody loved it. Here's a pic from 0friciton -

pinch problem

On the right side of this face I did a line that starts on the jug for the previously mentioned V2, and a bad sloper for the left hand. The problem involves a series of insecure slaps with the left hand, pinches with the right, and knee bar and thigh squeeze jessery with the right leg. I did it second go and it feels about V5. Adam sent this problem as well. It eventually tops out on the front face of the boulder (right side of arete). After this we were on our way to Tsunami.

I've been notoriously trying to send Tsunami for about a year now. A series of injuries and other circumstances have definitely impacted my ability to work the line, but I was ready on this day. Still carrying a slightly sore left finger, I discovered a couple of weeks ago that I could do all the left hand moves with an open hand, thus saving my finger. I was psyched to do the line then, and gave it several good goes from the start, though did not send. On Saturday I knew all I had to do was figure out my beta for the top, dial it, then fire it from the start.

I figured out my beta for the top pretty quickly. Once I got my left hand on the sloper, it would be high right foot wide, lots of tension, right hand to the crimp, left foot to the left, left hand to the jug. I was ready to try from the start.

The first go felt OK, but my muscles just weren't ready to crimp so hard. It took me a few tries to really get warm and used to the crimping. On my third try I got to the sloper, but could not hold the swing. I took a nice long break, got myself psyched, and on the next go I cruised the bottom, hit the sloper and controlled the swing, desperately got my right hand on the crimp, and barely latched the jug flake at the end with my left! So close! I'm happy to have finally done this problem, seems like everybody else did it before me, but its finally done!

The group then moved over to the Valley, where Aaron and Jon needed to send Triple-X. Brian and Adam wanted to work Masterlock, so we split up for a while.

Aaron and Jon worked Triple-X hard! They both fell off the holding the swing move about 10 times. After a bit the Dorinskys rolled up to the spot, with Matt wanting to work Cuisan. Will and myself did a super low ball problem on the far right side of the overhang of the boulder. It starts on an orange jug and basically goes straight up and a little right. It climbs a lot better than it looks! We have no idea what this is called, but it has been done before, and here's a pic of somebody climbing Iron Chuff, the lowball is actually to the right of this.

Larry problem on Triple X boulder

Jon and Aaron took a break from Triple-X and went down to Turdslinger. I was hanging out with them and looking at the really short overhang just to the right of the Turdslinger boulder. I've looked at it a hundred times before I'm sure, but always just dismissed it as being too low and not worth climbing. For some reason, on this day, I got the spark to investigate more.

I got down under the roof and realized that most of the ground was just small rocks. I started pulling a few rocks out and thought that maybe I could pull out enough to dig out a start. About 20 minutes later, indeed there was room, and there are holds all over the roof! Its rad! The problem that ended up being done though didn't start on the lowest conceivable start. A lower start could be very hard.

Anyway, Greg ended up spotting the beta and sending it. It starts on opposing flat squeeze features, and there is a tiny crimp on the right hand. There is a spot right next to the right hand for a right heel. Pull off the ground and throw right hand to the hold on the lip, top out. One hard move, Greg said 6 or 7, I could barely pull on, I'm thinking 8 or 9. We'll call it V7 for now, and we're naming it "How Low Can You Go?". To go with the Hip Hop theme of the adjacent boulder, and the nature of the line.

About the time that was going on, Adam did Iron Chuff, Aaron did Triple-X, Matt did Cuisan, I think Brian did Cuisan. Earlier in the day Greg and Brian both sent Masterlock. I had to leave a bit early so some other stuff probably got done too, but regardless it was a big day at Moore's!