Today we did 9 problems which none of us had done before. We have no idea what we did. We know some boulders were chalked, and since talking to some old schoolers we've learned that all the lines had been done previously, which was not a surprise to us, despite the obscurity of the blocs we found and the lines we climbed.
We parked in the park proper by the lake. Walking from the lake to the 2 Mile area, we did three lines on the first obvious big boulder on the right. They are on the uphill side of the boulder, one is a fun heel hooking jug haul at about V3. One is a two move mantle Larry problem that is actually pretty fun and probably about V3. The last was a traverse along the lip of the mantle problem with pretty cool moves, toe hooking, heel hooking, underclings, slopers, more toe hooks. About V4. JP has since informed me that this is called the Lone Eagle boulder.
We then went uphill to some blocs about 200 yards before the Mr Roboto boulder, on the uphill/right side of the trail. JP tells me that this area is called the "Land of Giants", lo and behold there ARE giant blocs up there...
We did three lines on the most obvious white boulder just visible from the trail. The lines are logical lines in a row from the left side of a large, striking, trail-facing wall. The right side of this face was either very easy, high, dirty, or chossy, or some combination, and we did not climb it.
The left most line on this gorgeous face has a very strange low start, you end up going to a hard right hand gaston move, to some tricky but easier moves above, and finsing with a comfortable, high top out. It was about a V5. The next line was really great. It started on a detached block on the boulder, first move goes big with the right hand to an amazing pinch which is kind of behind you on the right. From there you gain underclings and a knee bar to help reach higher opposing side pulls and a fun and high top out, probably V4 and an absolute beauty. The third line from the left starts sitting on underclings and goes up to a chockstone! So cool! You move up to crimps and/or sidepulls to a long crux move going to a slopey dish with the left hand, and the move is barn door. A couple more hard moves go to a heady but OK topout, we thought it was probably a V6 from the sit, V5 if you start on the chockstone. This is a classic line.
This boulder has really cool features and provides opportunity for creativity, for the sake of argument we're calling it the White Giant Boulder. The right side of this face is very highball but in places does have some amazing looking rock with straight up face climbing, bad ass! Head point opportunity?
From this boulder we went directly uphill, to the downhill side of the adjacent boulder uphill on the right. There was a blocky short roof of very dark rock that climbs better than it looks, and is not hard to find. It has several fun lines on steep, juggy, and tensiony climbing. I'm calling the roof "Gulliver's Roof", as it is quite short, and nestled among quite tall boulders, it plays on the theme of "Gulliver's Travels".
We did a V4 and a V5 on the roof, and there's another line that looks like 4/5ish that exits on the vertical face to the left. On these holds is where we saw evidence of previous climbers, as there was chalk on the jugs in the roof.
Directly facing this roof is a huge boulder of maybe 40 feet, which has a striking orange face directly across from the roof. Luckily enough, this beautiful orange face on this huge bloc has a ledge that offers a top out at about 20 feet. We did a superb line, that is aesthetic and that offers excellent movement. It goes up gastons, underclings, crimps, sidepulls, to a heady but OK topout over a sketchy landing, a stunning line and probably V4, classic!
To finish the day, we sessioned on the Mr Roboto boulder and got out of the park just before 6pm closing.
Summary -
* Lone Eagle Roof V3
* Lone Eagle Mantle V3
* Lone Eagle Mantle Traverse V4
* White Giant left V5, center V4, right V6
* Gulliver's Roof right V4
* Gulliver's Roof direct V4
* Orange Face V3
Oh and 2 Mile was sunny, the weather was fantastic! Such a wonderful day of bouldering, and we all returned home totally worked. Some training stuff...
The ideal boulder pyramid for stamina training, for me, right now would be - 4 3/4's, 2 5's, 1 6, 1 7, 1 6, 2 5's, 4 3/4's
The roster from today is missing 2 3/4's, 3 5's, 1 6 and 1 7, the fill-ins:
Mr Roboto V4
Mr Roboto Extension (traverse all the way to the dyno on the left) V6?
Dyno on far left of Roboto boulder V3
Crimp Dyno problem just to right of obvious dyno problem V5
right of Euro Wall off width V5
Still missing 1 V5 and 1 V7. I think there's another 5 on the Euro Wall, and there may be a 5 on the dark blocky roof, but is there a 7 anywhere nearby?
We parked in the park proper by the lake. Walking from the lake to the 2 Mile area, we did three lines on the first obvious big boulder on the right. They are on the uphill side of the boulder, one is a fun heel hooking jug haul at about V3. One is a two move mantle Larry problem that is actually pretty fun and probably about V3. The last was a traverse along the lip of the mantle problem with pretty cool moves, toe hooking, heel hooking, underclings, slopers, more toe hooks. About V4. JP has since informed me that this is called the Lone Eagle boulder.
We then went uphill to some blocs about 200 yards before the Mr Roboto boulder, on the uphill/right side of the trail. JP tells me that this area is called the "Land of Giants", lo and behold there ARE giant blocs up there...
We did three lines on the most obvious white boulder just visible from the trail. The lines are logical lines in a row from the left side of a large, striking, trail-facing wall. The right side of this face was either very easy, high, dirty, or chossy, or some combination, and we did not climb it.
The left most line on this gorgeous face has a very strange low start, you end up going to a hard right hand gaston move, to some tricky but easier moves above, and finsing with a comfortable, high top out. It was about a V5. The next line was really great. It started on a detached block on the boulder, first move goes big with the right hand to an amazing pinch which is kind of behind you on the right. From there you gain underclings and a knee bar to help reach higher opposing side pulls and a fun and high top out, probably V4 and an absolute beauty. The third line from the left starts sitting on underclings and goes up to a chockstone! So cool! You move up to crimps and/or sidepulls to a long crux move going to a slopey dish with the left hand, and the move is barn door. A couple more hard moves go to a heady but OK topout, we thought it was probably a V6 from the sit, V5 if you start on the chockstone. This is a classic line.
This boulder has really cool features and provides opportunity for creativity, for the sake of argument we're calling it the White Giant Boulder. The right side of this face is very highball but in places does have some amazing looking rock with straight up face climbing, bad ass! Head point opportunity?
From this boulder we went directly uphill, to the downhill side of the adjacent boulder uphill on the right. There was a blocky short roof of very dark rock that climbs better than it looks, and is not hard to find. It has several fun lines on steep, juggy, and tensiony climbing. I'm calling the roof "Gulliver's Roof", as it is quite short, and nestled among quite tall boulders, it plays on the theme of "Gulliver's Travels".
We did a V4 and a V5 on the roof, and there's another line that looks like 4/5ish that exits on the vertical face to the left. On these holds is where we saw evidence of previous climbers, as there was chalk on the jugs in the roof.
Directly facing this roof is a huge boulder of maybe 40 feet, which has a striking orange face directly across from the roof. Luckily enough, this beautiful orange face on this huge bloc has a ledge that offers a top out at about 20 feet. We did a superb line, that is aesthetic and that offers excellent movement. It goes up gastons, underclings, crimps, sidepulls, to a heady but OK topout over a sketchy landing, a stunning line and probably V4, classic!
To finish the day, we sessioned on the Mr Roboto boulder and got out of the park just before 6pm closing.
Summary -
* Lone Eagle Roof V3
* Lone Eagle Mantle V3
* Lone Eagle Mantle Traverse V4
* White Giant left V5, center V4, right V6
* Gulliver's Roof right V4
* Gulliver's Roof direct V4
* Orange Face V3
Oh and 2 Mile was sunny, the weather was fantastic! Such a wonderful day of bouldering, and we all returned home totally worked. Some training stuff...
The ideal boulder pyramid for stamina training, for me, right now would be - 4 3/4's, 2 5's, 1 6, 1 7, 1 6, 2 5's, 4 3/4's
The roster from today is missing 2 3/4's, 3 5's, 1 6 and 1 7, the fill-ins:
Mr Roboto V4
Mr Roboto Extension (traverse all the way to the dyno on the left) V6?
Dyno on far left of Roboto boulder V3
Crimp Dyno problem just to right of obvious dyno problem V5
right of Euro Wall off width V5
Still missing 1 V5 and 1 V7. I think there's another 5 on the Euro Wall, and there may be a 5 on the dark blocky roof, but is there a 7 anywhere nearby?
The first boulder you climbed larry called the "lone eagle" boulder. I have heard the second area you climbed referred to as the "land of the giants". We have climbed there before, Also I believe Stu and Sean have done some of the scary highballs. Not sure what they called them. Hope this helps -
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